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<channel>
	<title>Magic Mechanic</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.magicmechanic.net/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net</link>
	<description></description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 06 Nov 2012 17:54:00 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<item>
		<title>Fuel Pump</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/fuel-pump-3/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=fuel-pump-3</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/fuel-pump-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:52:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chevy / Suburban]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fuel Pump]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1647</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Chevrolet Suburban Year: 1999 Engine Size: 5.7 Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: Larry, we used to hear the fuel pump cycle when we turned off the engine. We don&#8217;t hear that now and it is difficult to start. But once it starts it runs normally. The pump is a year old and the fuel pump [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Chevrolet Suburban<br />
Year: 1999<br />
Engine Size: 5.7<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: Larry, we used to hear the fuel pump cycle when we turned off the engine.  We don&#8217;t hear that now and it is difficult to start.  But once it starts it runs normally.  The pump is a year old and the fuel pump relay is new.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
Try turing the key on and off about 6 times, then try to start the truck.  If it starts right up, there could be a problem in the CPI fuel system allowing fuel to leak out while sitting. We would recommend a residual fuel pressure test to verify if this is the case.</p>
<p>Let us know if you need our help with this, 407-629-2661.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Shaking Engine</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/shaking-engine/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=shaking-engine</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/shaking-engine/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:52:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[CV Joints]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Engine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Honda / CRV]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1649</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Honda CRV Year: 2002 Engine Size: 4 cylinder Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: I sent an email detailing my issues two weeks ago. It was related to a shimmy/shake in the engine compartment on acceleration between 20-25 mph only. Have you had a chance to review? Answer: It may be a CV joint binding!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Honda CRV<br />
Year: 2002<br />
Engine Size: 4 cylinder<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: I sent an email detailing my issues two weeks ago.  It was related to a shimmy/shake in the engine compartment on acceleration between 20-25 mph only. Have you had a chance to review?</p>
<p>Answer: It may be a CV joint binding!</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Transmission Slipping into 1st</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/transmission-slipping-into-1st/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=transmission-slipping-into-1st</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/transmission-slipping-into-1st/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:51:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Isuzu / Trooper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Transmission]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1652</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Isuzu Trooper Year: 2001 Engine Size: 3.5 V6 Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: My transmission is slipping sometimes going into 1(first) gear since the cold weather. The fluid hasn&#8217;t been changed for 50,000 miles. Will it help? Answer: It might, but it sounds like a bad piston seal.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Isuzu Trooper<br />
Year: 2001<br />
Engine Size: 3.5 V6<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: My transmission is slipping sometimes going into 1(first) gear since the cold weather. The fluid hasn&#8217;t been changed for 50,000 miles. Will it help?</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
It might, but it sounds like a bad piston seal.</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Lights &amp; Displays</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/lights-displays/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=lights-displays</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/lights-displays/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:51:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Display]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[GMC / Safari]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ignition]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lights]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1654</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: GMC Safari Year: 2002 Engine Size: V6 Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: Drives fine, but the lights go on and off and sometimes it wont start. My dome and compass lights won’t work and the radio displays go on and off. Thank you. Answer: Could be a bad ignition switch. We would want to check [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
GMC Safari<br />
Year: 2002<br />
Engine Size: V6<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: Drives fine, but the lights go on and off and sometimes it wont start. My dome and compass lights won’t work and the radio displays go on and off. Thank you.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
Could be a bad ignition switch.  We would want to check for voltage at the starter solenoid while putting the ignition switch through the battery of tests!  Let us know if you need our help, 407-629-2661.</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Block Test</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/block-test/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=block-test</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/block-test/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:50:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Block Test]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cadillac / Eldorado]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1656</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Cadillac Eldorado Year: 1995 Engine Size: 32V Northstar Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: I am looking at a 95 Eldo. Is this one of the bad northstars? What should I look for? If I remember right you mentioned &#8216;bullet proof’ Northstars on your radio show, I assume that is a relatively large expense. Thank you [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Cadillac Eldorado<br />
Year: 1995<br />
Engine Size: 32V Northstar<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: I am looking at a 95 Eldo. Is this one of the bad northstars? What should I look for?  If I remember right you mentioned &#8216;bullet proof’ Northstars on your radio show, I assume that is a relatively large expense.  Thank you for any info you can provide.  Oh, the Eldorado has 80,000 miles.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
I would want a block test before even considering it. We hook up the block tester and rev the motor hard a few times.  This will let us know if there’s compression gases getting into the cooling system. </p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Amsoil Oil &amp; Mileage</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/amsoil-oil-mileage/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=amsoil-oil-mileage</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/amsoil-oil-mileage/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:50:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chrysler / Town and Country]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mileage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Oil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1658</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Chrysler T&#038;C Year: 2010 Engine Size: 3.8 Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: On the radio show about 2 weeks back, you stated that adding ( ) amount of Amsoil outboard motor oil to gas tank would increase mileage. Thanks. Answer: Amsoil Outboard 100 to 1, 1 ounce per each 5 gallon.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Chrysler T&#038;C<br />
Year: 2010<br />
Engine Size: 3.8<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: On the radio show about 2 weeks back, you stated that adding (  ) amount of Amsoil outboard motor oil to gas tank would increase mileage.  Thanks.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
Amsoil Outboard 100 to 1, 1 ounce per each 5 gallon.</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Engine Coolant Temp</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/engine-coolant-temp/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=engine-coolant-temp</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/engine-coolant-temp/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:49:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chevy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Clutch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Engine]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1660</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Chevrolet Year: 1991 Engine Size: 5.0 TBI Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: During very hot summer months, the engine coolant temperature is very high (even over heats sometimes), when the air condition is running while the engine is at idle and/or during stop and go traffic. I believe the engine has 180,000+ miles. Also, when [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Chevrolet<br />
Year: 1991<br />
Engine Size: 5.0 TBI<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: During very hot summer months, the engine coolant temperature is very high (even over heats sometimes), when the air condition is running while the engine is at idle and/or during stop and go traffic.  I believe the engine has 180,000+ miles.  Also, when the vehicle is at a full stop and the acellerater is fully pressed down (launched as though at a drag strip), there is a loud thud towards the rear of the vehicle (as though something has spacked the under carriage).  I noticed this a week after running over a dead animal (possible deer) in the middle of the road on a pitch black highway.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
I would check for a bad flywheel/flex plate and a bad fan clutch</p>
<p>Issue/Question: Thank you Larry for your response. I meant to include that it my vehicle is a 1991 camaro rs with a 700R4 Transmission and the radiator fan is an electric fan that&#8217;s currently wired to turn on/off via a switch, not thermostat.  Anyway, the electric fan remains running as long as it is not turned off via the driver.  If my flywheel/flexplate is bad, then why does the loud &#8220;smack/thud&#8221; upon HARD ACCELERATION sound and feel as though it is at the REAR of the vehicle and not towards the front near the engine?</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
Have you checked for a bent drive shaft?</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Asphalt Smell</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/asphalt-smell/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=asphalt-smell</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/asphalt-smell/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Jul 2012 18:49:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Asphalt Smell]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Exhaust]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nissan / Quest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Oil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1662</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Nissan Quest Year: 2000 Engine Size: V6 3.3 Liter Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: My car has had an asphalt smell for one year. At first, it was just periodic, but now it seems to be smelling more. The dealer&#8217;s mechanic checked it and said all he could find was a piece of plastic on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Nissan Quest<br />
Year: 2000<br />
Engine Size: V6 3.3 Liter<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: My car has had an asphalt smell for one year. At first, it was just periodic, but now it seems to be smelling more. The dealer&#8217;s mechanic checked it and said all he could find was a piece of plastic on the rear manifold, that it must get hot and smell. It does not smell like plastic. I think it happens when the heater or the a/c is on, but am not sure as they are on most of the time. Plastic does not smell like asphalt. If I am sitting with the engine running and the a/c on, it will sometimes smell. There are no oil leaks underneath the car. Do you have any ideas as to what it can be? I am afraid to just ignore it and do not, of course, want a car fire.  When I get out of the car after driving, I can also smell it on the outside sometimes. Since it is periodic, I haven&#8217;t been able to reproduce the smell at the dealer, but asphalt has a distinctive smell. Thank you. </p>
<p>Answer:<br />
That&#8217;s a sign of oil leaking from, most likely, the cam covers and then getting on the rear exhaust manifold. If you would like, we can check for you, 407-629-2661.</p>
<p>Issue/Question: Thank you for the prompt reply. I didn&#8217;t believe the plastic explanation from the dealer&#8217;s service department. Would the oil show as less when it is checked? It has never been low in the whole ten years. Also, is it something that is dangerous? Should I make arrangements to bring it in right away? Thank you so much for your time.  I really appreciate it.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
It needs to be looked at anytime there’s an oil leak getting on a hot exhaust.  It could spell trouble. Just let us know when you would like for us to look at it, 407-629-2661.</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Lights &amp; Chimes</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/lights-chimes/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=lights-chimes</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/lights-chimes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jun 2012 19:07:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Chimes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ford / Mustang]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lights]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1614</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Ford Mustang Year: 1999 Engine Size: V6 Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: The dome light stays on after starting the engine. The key chime also stays on when the doors are closed. Answer: Two things can cause this, one is the door latch switch inside the door and the other is a GEM module that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Ford Mustang<br />
Year: 1999<br />
Engine Size: V6<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: The dome light stays on after starting the engine.  The key chime also stays on when the doors are closed.</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
Two things can cause this, one is the door latch switch inside the door and the other is a GEM module that controls the interior lights. We would need to start by checking voltage at the latch switch inside the door.</p>
<div id="wpcr_respond_1"></div>]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Timing Belt Change at 250k Miles</title>
		<link>http://www.magicmechanic.net/timing-belt-change-at-250k-miles/?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=timing-belt-change-at-250k-miles</link>
		<comments>http://www.magicmechanic.net/timing-belt-change-at-250k-miles/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jun 2012 19:07:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Mileage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Nissan / Quest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Timing Belts/ Chains]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.magicmechanic.net/?p=1616</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Car Information: Nissan Quest Year: 1994 Engine Size: V6 Trans: Automatic Issue/Question: My car has 250,000 plus miles on it and I was wondering if it’s worth the time and money to get a timing belt change, or should I just run it until it goes south on me? Answer: Here are some things to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Car Information:<br />
Nissan Quest<br />
Year: 1994<br />
Engine Size: V6<br />
Trans: Automatic</p>
<p>Issue/Question: My car has 250,000 plus miles on it and I was wondering if it’s worth the time and money to get a timing belt change, or should I just run it until it goes south on me?</p>
<p>Answer:<br />
Here are some things to look for to see if you can get some more service out of it without breaking the bank:</p>
<ul>
<li>The transmission is ok.</li>
<li>The A/C still works.</li>
<li>The engine doesn&#8217;t sound like its coming apart or using a lot of oil.</li>
<li>The engine mounts are still intact.</li>
<li>The brake system is ok.</li>
<li>The steering rack isn&#8217;t pouring fluid.</li>
</ul>
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