Issue/Question: The engine seems to run fine until I drive at slow speeds, feathering the throttle while in traffic. The idle increases, and the engine surges sometimes up to 1500 rpm. Then it falters and runs really rough. Then sometimes it will just quit altogether. The problem sets no codes in OBD and I’ve been running the scanner during the episodes with no code either. I’ve had this to Ford 3 times and they have replaced thousands of dollars in parts but cannot solve the problem. The engine is now out of warranty. I have gone through 55 pages of info on Edmunds.com and find many similar symptoms but no one has offered a solution yet. I’m now afraid to go out on the road towing my RV trailer with this thing. I can see why they call this a “Power Stroke Diesel” because that’s what it gives the owner. Can you help me? By the way I really enjoy your show.

Answer:
Their’s a oil supply line that feeds the injector system inside the motor, if the line leaks off pressure it will stall the motor like you describe. We will need to take an oil pressure test at the injector oil supply to verify if that is your issue.

Issue/Question: I pulled out three codes that are 172-173-327 and nobody can tell me what’s wrong with it I cant figure it out can you tell me what’s wrong with it and what I need to do to fix it cause its driving me crazy the only think I can do is take the wheels off and attach another truck on them, thanks john

Answer:
Without looking at the data from our NGS tester theirs no way to pin point the cause of these codes it would be a shot in the dark. This year truck did not have data ability for a technician to look at for anything other then the NGS scan tool.

Issue/Question: Love your show. A while back I heard you mention an Amsoil product that improved mileage and lubricated the fuel system and I cant remember which one it was. I think you said it’s ok to use it every other tank. (Maybe the 50:1)? Thanks for all the great advise!

Answer:
Try the 100 to 1 Amsoil synthetic out board oil use 8 ounces with a full tank of fuel.

Issue/Question: When driving the car from a stopped position it does not want to shift gears properly. You have to really wind it up and then it really slams into the next gear. Some one said it is the kick down linkage is stuck or lose. What do you say and is this something that the average person can fix or can you tell me when to bring the car to you. Also the car is sometimes hard to start, acting as though the battery is almost dead.

Answer:
Either as vacuum leak or bad modulator valve causing the late shift, and either a stuck vacuum advance or timing misadjusted most likely causing the starter drag.

Issue/Question:
Car has 85k miles and runs great. A vacuum gauge installed after the throttle bodies will read a very steady 20″Hg at idle and 21″Hg at 2000 rpm. However when I put the AC on the vacuum gauge will read 20″Hg but the needle vibrates rapidly +/- 1″Hg from 20″Hg. There are no noticeable drivability problems with AC on. What gives with the vibrating vacuum needle with AC on?

Answer:
Sounds like valve clearance may be to tight on a valve and the vacuum is being interrupted.

Issue/Question:
I Listen to you on the radio and have great respect for you. What I know is, around 80 to 85,000 miles there is a good chance of fuel pump failure. What I don’t know is if there is an easy way to check the relay and the pump to have a better idea which. I don’t even find a fuse for it. My lights, radio, door buzzer, etc. work so I am assuming the ignition switch isn’t the problem.

Answer:
If its a intermittent stall I would inspect the pig tail connector going to the fuel pump module they overheat and make poor connections

Issue/Question:
The headlights have turned on at random when the car is parked, staying on for a while and then turning off when no one is near the car. For example, I get up in the morning and the lights are turned on. What’s the problem?

Answer:
Most likely the convenience module is going bad is it doing any other strange things?

Issue/Question: After driving my vehicle for about 5 minutes and everything is warmed up my oil light comes on when I am in idle and the RPM’s are at 1200 or below my oil light comes on. If I rev up my motor past 1200 RPMS, the light disappears. When I am driving the oil light never comes on, it only comes on when I am at a stopped position or the RPMS go below 1200. When the oil light comes on there is no knocking sound on the engine and does not run rough.

Any thoughts?

Answer:
Sounds like you may just have a bad oil pressure switch. The best thing to do is get it in and let us do a mechanical oil pressure test to ensure their is no pressure problem with the motor. If the engine isn’t making any strange noises its most likely just a bad switch.

Issue/Question: Brake, ABS, and Tire Pressure lights are on. Initial diagnostic test stated LF wheel speed sensor had to be replaced. Lights never shut off. I took it to Courtesy Toyota who also diagnosed the van and later stated that the ABS Actuator/Computer had to be replaced. The cost is $2,000. Is there another alternative other than spending that much money? Can I still drive the van? Thanks for your help.

Answer:
Greg we need to scan the system our self. Personally I don’t think we have ever replace a ABS module on one of these so they don’t go bad often. If it is defective and needs replaced due to the cost and excellent track record of this part I would suggest we install a used one and the repair (if needed) would be a fraction of the price!

Issue/Question: We had my Mom’s car fixed at Magic Mechanic on 7/21/2010. The starter and Starter Solenoid were replaced. However, there was a further problem because on Aug. 17th, her battery caught fire when the starter malfunctioned. The car was towed and repaired by the Haines Creek Garage in Leesburg. To make a long story shorter, I have the starter and solenoid that was installed by Magic Mechanic and would like to find out how to apply for a refund for the parts. Any assistance you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Answer:
A starter will and can do a lot of different things but blowing up batteries usually isn’t one of them! In most cases a battery will emit flammable hydrogen acid fumes and if theirs a spark from a connection or an ignition component the fumes and the battery can explode but we have never seen a starter cause this condition. Everything we do at Magic Mechanic has a 1 year 12,000 mile nationwide warranty (we can offer warranty service any where in the United States at any of over 65,000 Napa Car Care Centers and theirs 2 in Leesburg! Under the terms of our warranty it is customary to contact us if its suspected a covered part is at fault. (we answer the phone Monday – Saturday 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM and our answering service forwards all emergency phone calls after hours and on Sunday (I don’t have record of any calls concerning this). We should have been notified and our warranty would pay for towing, loaner vehicle, parts and labor and even pay for lodging if you were out of town! Since the vehicle has already been repaired we will have a few hoops to jump through, I will need for you to drop off the parts and we will need to test them to see if one of the parts has failed and could cause this problem if it can be duplicated we will be able to get you a refund for the entire bill including the new battery if we can deem the parts in question were at fault!

I will also give JD my general manager a copy of this e-mail so he knows what is going on and expect the parts, after you drop off the parts give us a day to do what testing is necessary and contact Napa
on how they want us to proceed with any refunds.

Please give us a call at 407-629-2661 if you have any questions and were sorry your mother encountered a problem.